How we actually find slab leaks.
Most plumbers use a hammer. We use electronic leak detection, line tracing, and pressure isolation — in that order. The goal: pinpoint the leak within a 12-inch radius before any concrete gets touched.
Pressure isolation test
We isolate hot and cold sides separately to confirm the leak is in supply lines (not the slab itself or the sewer).
Electronic detection
Electronic leak-detection sensors pinpoint the leak's exact position through the slab before we cut.
Electronic line tracing
For copper systems, we trace lines under the slab to confirm what's where before cutting.
Thermal imaging (optional)
For hot-side leaks, IR imaging confirms the spot before we touch a saw.
Repair options — least invasive first.
We always quote repair options from cheapest and least invasive to most. Your call.
1. Spot repair.
Cut concrete at the leak, repair the section, patch concrete. Best when the rest of the system is healthy.
2. Reroute.
Run new line through walls or attic, bypassing the slab entirely on that section. Best when access is bad or the existing pipe is suspect.
3. Full repipe.
If you've had three or more slab leaks in five years, or your home is on original 1970s copper that's pitting throughout, repipe is usually the financially smarter long-term play.
Signs of a slab leak — catch it early.
The earlier you catch it, the cheaper the fix. Watch for:
- Hot or warm spots on the floor — usually a hot-side leak
- Water bill jumps with no change in usage
- The sound of running water with everything off
- Mildew smell or visible mold near baseboards
- Cracking in tile, wood floors warping, or grout discoloration
- Reduced water pressure throughout the house
If you've got two of these, call us today. If you've got three, call us right now.