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Sewer Pipe Repair & Replacement
tunneled, replaced, and done for good.

DFW clay soils shift, oak trees love your sewer line, and 1960s cast iron is officially past its service life. We diagnose with a camera, then replace the line the right way — by tunneling under the slab or trenching around the house to fully abandon the old system. Everything documented for insurance.

Camera first. Always.

Anyone who quotes you a sewer repair without putting a camera in the line is guessing. We run the line, record the video, identify the problem (roots, belly, break, offset joint), and quote based on what's actually wrong. You get the video on a flash drive or emailed.

Two ways we replace a failed sewer line.

When a line is too far gone to repair — collapsed, back-pitched, root-choked end to end, or original cast iron that's rotting throughout — it gets replaced. We don't do liners or "pipe-within-a-pipe" patches that leave your failing pipe in the ground. We replace the line entirely, one of two ways:

1. Tunneling under the house.

When the bad line runs beneath your slab, we hand-tunnel underneath the foundation to reach it — no jackhammering through your floors, no tearing up the kitchen. We dig access tunnels from outside the house, work our way to the pipe, replace the full run with new piping, and backfill and compact the soil so the slab stays supported. You keep your floors, your tile, and your sanity, and the new line is fully accessible during the work so it's done right.

2. Trench around the house — abandon the old system.

When it makes more sense to reroute, we trench around the house and install a brand-new line with proper cleanouts and access points, then fully abandon the old failed system in place. This avoids working under the slab entirely, gives you a clean modern line with code-compliant access for future maintenance, and leaves the dead pipe sealed off so it can never back up into your home again.

How we decide
It comes down to where the line runs, how deep it sits, your foundation type, and what's on the surface. We camera the line first, show you the footage, and walk you through which approach fits your house — and why — before any dirt moves.

Spot repair, when that's all it needs.

Not every problem means a full replacement. A single break or root intrusion at a known, accessible point gets a targeted spot repair — we dig to it, replace that section, and backfill. We'll always tell you honestly when a spot repair is enough and a full replacement would be overkill.

What kills DFW sewer lines.

  • Tree roots in 4-inch joints — oaks especially
  • Clay soil shift — bellies and joint offsets
  • Cast iron pipe from pre-1980 homes — corroded from the inside
  • Improperly bedded modern PVC — when the original work was rushed

Frequently asked

How long does a sewer line replacement take?
A spot repair is often same-day. A full replacement by tunneling under the slab typically takes 4–6 days depending on the length of the run and how deep it sits. Trenching around the house to reroute and abandon the old line is usually 4–5 days. Both timelines include coordinating the required city inspection. We give you a firm schedule after we camera the line.
Do you have to break up my floors to replace a line under the slab?
No. We tunnel under the foundation from outside the house to reach a line running beneath the slab, so your floors, tile, and cabinets stay intact. The only time we'd ever go through a slab is if tunneling genuinely isn't possible — and we'd walk you through why first.
Will my insurance cover sewer line repair?
Standard homeowner policies typically don't — sewer lines are excluded as 'maintenance.' An inexpensive service-line endorsement on your policy usually does cover them. We provide insurance-grade documentation either way.
★ READY WHEN YOU ARE

Leak? Clog? No sweat.

Pick up the phone or book online. We'll roll a truck within the hour, give you a real number before we start, and have it fixed before the coffee gets cold.

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